Wild River Review
Wild River Review
Connecting People, Places, and Ideas: Story by Story
May 2010
Open Borders
 

April 27, 2012

Cocktail Hour! A visiting bartender series (NEW to Wild Table)

I’ve surrounded myself with many talented mixologists and bartenders over the past year.  In keeping with the desire of Wild Table to unlock the secrets behind the bar, I’ve decided to take a different path.

This article is written by a most interesting man.  During our email conversations I discovered that this gentleman has lived a very exciting life!

It’s revealing to find out from bartenders, what things influence them- and let them have a forum for their thoughts.

Humberto Marques is one of these tireless denizens of the bar.  He speaks carefully and I hope my editing of his writing gives you a sense of balance in his recipes.  I did not translate the European measurements in keeping with my desire for authenticity.

If you need to translate shots into cl, may I please suggest writing him!  I’m sure you would have a fine conversation.  Humberto Marques <berto-sm@hotmail.com>

Please feel free to leave a comment at the bottom should you desire.  It’s always nice to hear the thoughts of my readers.

I’d like to frame this piece with a quote from Humberto’s LinkedIn page:

Humberto Marques:  Is capable of turning a mix of ingredients into magic elixirs ~Cocktails

Where Cocktail Creativity and Originality Meet Together

By: Humberto Marques (Edited by Warren Bobrow)

Unfaithful

Cocktail recipe – Unfaithful

Ingredients:

5cl Hendricks gin

4slices of cucumber

1cl Cointreau

3cl fresh squeezed lemon juice

2cl Acacia honey

1 bar spoon of raw licorice powder

Methodology:

Muddle, shaken and fine strain into a vintage martini glass

Garnish: licorice root

Background & Comments: The idea of putting this cocktail together came from research on the effects of Licorice And Cucumber:

Every guy over time has wished for a miracle musk; a magical cologne that can ensnare the woman of his dreams.  No such secret formula exists, of course, but the right scents can put a woman in the mood.

I create a cocktail based on this idea.

In the late ‘90s, Alan Hirsch, MD, of the Smell and Taste Treatment and Research Foundation in Chicago, set out to discover which scents really push people’s buttons.  He exposed subjects to several scents and measured their sexual arousal by monitoring the blood vessels in and around the erotic zones of the human body. The results? A licorice and cucumber concoction was the most effective in triggering a response in both women and men.

(Editor’s Note, I’m running down to get a couple of cucumbers right now. I already have Absinthe)

It’s an odd combination of aromas, but Hirsch found that they boosted sexual appetite in women more than any other smell. The explanation? “Odors are intricately associated with sexual arousal,” Hirsch says. Licorice and cucumber don’t seem sexy, but Hirsch theorizes that their smells may make women comfortable and lower their anxiety levels.

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Cocktail recipe:

Mimosa Daiquiri

Mimosa

Ingredients:

6cl Angostura 1919 Rum

3cl Fresh squeezed lime-juice

3 cl Mimosa Syrup (home-made) or sourced from French Artisans.

Method: Shake all the ingredients over ice and strain into a martini glass

Garnish: Mimosa Flower

Comments: One of the best twists on the cocktail named a Daiquiri that I have ever tasted…

The Mimosa is known as the Silver Wattle tree (species name: Acacia Dealbata) is native to the southeastern Australian states of New South Wales, Victoria and Tasmania. They are also located in the south of Europe around the Mediterranean.

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Victorian Era

During the summer heat, Victorian women placed lemon verbena leaves in their handkerchiefs to inhale and refresh themselves, according to Possum Creek Herb Farm. They also used the leaves to scent the water in fingerbowls during elaborate, multi-course Victorian dinners. Lemon Verbena is mentioned as Scarlet O’Hara’s mother’s (Ellen Robillard O’Hara) in the movie “Gone with the Wind”-1939 as her favorite plant.

Cocktail recipe:

“Gone with the Wind”

Gone with the Wind

6cl of Beefeater gin

3cl apricot puree

3 large Lemon Verbena leaf springs

3 lemon slices

(1 cl fresh squeezed lemon juice total)

2cl Acacia honey

Method: shake all the ingredients over ice and double strain into a Martini glass

Garnish : Lemon Verbena sprig

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Cocktail recipe: Lady Eucalyptus

(Previously know as Eucalyptus martini in “The Gin Compendium book by Gary Regan)

Lady Eucalyptus

Ingredients:

50 ml Tanqueray gin

30 ml Homemade Eucalyptus Syrup*

30 ml lime-juice

20ml Cointreau

1 dash egg white

Method: Shake over ice and double-strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

Garnish: eucalyptus leaf floating

Comments: The story of this drink dates back to 2004 in Uk -Edinburgh while I was working at the Oloroso cocktail bar & restaurant. The owner is the celebrity Scottish chef Tony Singh.  The idea was to make a twist on a well-known, classic cocktail.  I picked the cocktail named the White Lady. I wanted to make a really refreshing and balanced drink, so it came to my mind one day, in Portugal, near my home, we have lots of eucalyptus trees. I knew that when you break the leaf you get a fresh menthol aroma.  I thought why not make a syrup from this young fresh leaf?  I thought that could be a perfect compliment to the gin along with the other citrus.  As it turned out it was. The cocktail become popular and it still is popular today.  After that I created other twists such as the Mojito.  I call it a Koala Mojito.  It uses eucalyptus syrup mixed with mint, lime and rum. Today eucalyptus has inspired many other bartenders and chefs.

I found that in Australia they made vodka flavored with eucalyptus.

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Cocktail Name: La Primavera

La Primavera

6cl Geranium Gin

2cl Lillet Blanc

3cl Korean Aloe Vera honey

3cl Fresh squeezed lime-juice

Method: shake all the ingredients over ice and strain into a lowball glass with fresh ice

Garnish: Grapes

My inspiration

Aloe Vera -also known as the true or medicinal aloe; is a species of succulent plant in the genus Aloe.  This is believed to have originated in the Sudan.  Aloe Vera is frequently cited as being used in medicinal purposes.  Aloe Vera is also commercially available in yogurts, beverages and in some desserts. It can be used as a food substance. Some molecular gastronomists have begun to take advantage of the gelling properties. Perhaps the most notable among these is Chef Quique Dacosta’s “Oysters Guggenheim,” created at El Poblet in Spain.

Like always I look for something unusual ingredient.  I am passionate about herbs, one day I found some aloe Vera plant in a shop and I decided do some research on it.   I found that in Korea they do this amazing aloe Vera honey tea in a jar.  It looks like a green honey jelly and the taste comes crossed a mix of kiwis, grapes and limes.  It’s quite delicious.

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Cocktail Name:  Luisa Julep

Luisa Julep

6cl Bourbon whiskey (Makers Mark)

12-16 lemon verbena leafs

3cl apricot puree

1.5cl sugar syrup

Method: First put in the lemon verbena in a glass (a lot), then the sugar (just a little) muddle without damaging the leaves, add the apricot puree and pack the whole glass with very finely crushed ice — the key to keeping it cold. Then pour in the whiskey, stir, and sip — slowly.

Comments: The plant became popular throughout southern Spain as Yerba Luisa it was connected, even in print, with the more prominent personage Maria Luisa, Queen of Spain.

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Cocktail Name:  Serendipity

Serendipity

6cl Vanilla vodka

2cl Lillet Blanc

3cl Apricot & lemon verbena shrub (apricot puree with sugar blended together with infused lemon verbena, pineapple sage apple cider vinegar)

Top with ginger ale

Garnish:  pineapple sage

Method: Shake over ice all the ingredients and strain into a highball glass

Comments: A great refreshing drink, inspired on the drinks called shrubs from 1800, the way of preserving fruits on vinegar and sugar, here you find a classic pairing flavor between lemon verbena and apricot along with pineapple sage and vanilla a match made in heaven for the summer.

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Cocktail name:  Clover Shrub

Clover Shrub

6cl Tanqueray 10 Gin

2cl Lillet Blanc

3cl Raspberry & Pomegranate Shrub  (Home-made shrub of raspberries, pomegranates, lemon verbena, pineapple sage, chocolate mint infused vinegar)

Dash of Egg white

Method: Shake all the ingredients over ice and double strain into a vintage cocktail glass

Garnish: Pineapple cloverleaf

(The Tanqueray Gin crescent is the pineapple.  This image represents hospitality and assurance of quality, my idea on the garnish is to reflect the same level of hospitality)

Comments: Looking back in time to reinvent a Classic cocktail –

The Clover Club cocktail has roots in the pre-prohibition social club of the same name. It started in the Bellevue-Stratford Hotel in Philadelphia in the late 1880s, the Clover Club was a bawdy group of lawyers, bankers and various other captains of industry who, according to the Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book, “…often dined and wined, and wined again.”

A Recipe from 1909 book; “Drinks – How to Mix and Serve”, by Paul E. Lowe, and courtesy of Dave Wondrich who says that the earliest recipe that he discovered had dry vermouth.

This slightly sweet, mostly sour cocktail gained popularity for a time before the First World War, only to fall swiftly and ungraciously out of fashion after the Prohibition era ended. In 1934, Esquire magazine called it a drink for “pansies” and listed it as one of the worst beverages of the previous decade. From then on it was relegated, rather unfairly, to the frilly and sugary “drinks for the ladies” sections of bartending books, until it was recently rediscovered with the revival of the classic cocktail.

Now, I decided to take this classic into another stage  If we look back in time people would preserve fruits in vinegar and sugar.  There was very poor refrigeration at that time.  This method of preservation was named “Shrubs”.

For my shrub I chose an apple cider vinegar and infused it for a week with lemon verbena, pineapple sage and chocolate mint so that the herbs would flavor the vinegar.  Next step was to filter the vinegar from the herbs and mix it with a fresh homemade raspberry & pomegranate fruit puree syrup. The raspberry shrub has a sweet and citrus aftertaste with hints of acidity. This makes a perfect pairing with the fresh citrus notes of the Tanqueray 10 gin. Having enough acidity already in the cocktail, I wouldn’t need to add lemon juice, so to complement the gin and the shrub I only added Lillet Blanc.  Lillet Blanc is a blend of wines with a secret blend of fruit liqueurs, some of which are orange liqueurs. Lillet Blanc is the perfect match between the gin and the shrub. This unique ingredient gives a zest and enhances both flavors.  The final ingredient, to top off the complete cocktail experience, are fresh egg whites.

Egg whites gives the drink the essential froth.  You get an amazing mouth feel and a smooth sensation on the finish.

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Cocktail name: Knickerbocker’s Punch

Knickerbocker's Punch

6cl Angostura 1919 Rum

3cl of raspberry& pomegranate Shrub  (raspberry and pomegranate puree with sugar blended with pineapple sage, lemon verbena, chocolate mint apple cider vinegar)

1.5cl orange Curacao

Top with ginger beer

Method: shake over ice and strain into a highball glass

Garnish: with 3 raspberries and grind Sichuan pepper on top

Comments: A twist-take with more punch in the Knickerbocker cocktail from Jerry Thomas book ” The Bon Vivant’s ” 1862

Bartender Profile: Humberto Marques

I had my first contact with serving drinks when I was 15 years old.  While in college I spent my summer holidays working in a Bar in a beach in Portugal.  The cocktail drinking culture in Portugal wasn’t that much at the time.  My boss had cocktail books in the bar and I spent many an afternoon reading them.  Believe it or not the first cocktail recipe that I made from one of the books it was a Negroni.

Unfortunately I tried it but found it bitter to my young sense of taste.

Please don’t take me wrong, today I do enjoy a Negroni.  The second classic cocktail that I learned was the Golden Cadillac.  My brother was in the hospitality school studying bartending, cooking and waiting tables.

From 1995 to 1997 I continued to work in this bar during the summer holidays.  In 1997 I decided to enter hospitality school and learn about bartending.  In 1998 I found myself working in a 4 star hotel as bartender.

I become bar manager after a half year.

In 2002 I moved to a 5 star hotel as bar supervisor and in 2003 I decided to join a cruise ship line in south of France as bartender.  In the same year I moved to Scotland and started work in the world famous Gleneagles Hotel as bartender.

I stayed for one year.  After this valuable experience I was invited by celebrity Scottish chef Tony Singh to come to work at his cocktail bar & restaurant in Edinburgh.  I stayed four years.  The last two years I was their Bar Manager.

In 2006 I also was a part time Brand Ambassador for Ancon Whisky.  While working for their brand I held several Whisky-tasting events and developed some cocktails.

In 2008 to 2009 I was Brand Ambassador for Global Brands.  I took care of a portfolio of premium spirits in which I played a key role in training sales representation and distribution on all the company brands and spirits in bars, restaurants and shops.  I actively developed new cocktails and drinks for the company.

In 2009 it was back to the bar.  I missed the day to day grind of making drinks and interacting with my customers.

I joined another cocktail bar in Edinburgh as bar supervisor at the famed Hawke & Hunter.

In 2010 I moved to Copenhagen in looking for a new, fresh bar scene and now I found myself working in the best cocktail bar in Copenhagen named 1105 cocktail bar named for the postal code:

www.1105.dk

Education and Qualifications

BTEC: Certificate of Excellence in The Bar (2003) Qualification in Bar Management (2001)

Certificate on Food and Beverage Techniques (1997)

Professional Qualifications

Flow Hospitality certificate training (2010) on- Wine, The Bartender, Licensing, Health & Safety, and Food Hygiene

MCA Award in Basic Sea safety Training – STCW95 – Personal safety and Social responsibilities,

Personal surviving Techniques, Fire prevention and Fire Fighting, Elementary First Aid, ENG 1 Medical Certificate. Certificate accredited by VT Flagship in partnering with Royal Navy Certificate on Leading the Way by the Human resources director of the Chiva- Som Hotel (Thailand) for Hotel do Caramulo****Portugal Certificate on Selling Skills by the Human resources of the Chiva -Som Hotel (Thailand) for Hotel do Caramulo****Portugal  Certificate on Train The Trainer by the Human Resources director of the Chiva-Som Hotel (Thailand) for Hotel do Caramulo****Portugal  Other – Eucalyptus Martini” Cocktail Diploma from Bartender Magazine (American Magazine), Grand Marnier Certificate on – The Grand Marnier Appreciation Course, Morrison Bowmore Distillers Limited Certificate on – The Scotch Whisky Programme, Diploma on Long Drinks National Competition – ABP (Portuguese Bartenders Association)

Award Awards and Achievements

Absolut Invite 2012 Final 10Nordic countries Cocktail competition  - 2th Place

Absolut Invite 2012 Denmark cocktail competition   - 1st Place

Winner of the springtime cocktail competition by About.com with the cocktail” La Primavera” (Gin, Aloe Vera honey, lime juice, Lillet Blanc)

Golden Award received for the Drinks International Cocktail competition 2006

2005 Hendricks Gin cocktail competition winning award in Scotland (Edinburgh)

Dram magazine awards 2005 nominated for the Morgan’s Spiced® Mixologist of the year

2005 Xante® Cocktail Competition Winning award in London

Finalist on the Smirnoff Penka competition in Scotland

Finalist on the Porfidio Cocktail Competition organized by Class Bar Magazine. (Only one entry from Scotland)

Finalist on the competition Grand Marnier® Best Bartender of the Year 2004 in London

Editor’s note:

Expect to see more interviews from working bartenders and mixologists on Wild Table!  Cheers!

http://www.cocktailwhisperer.com

To support our mission and passion for good storytelling, please help support my work and make a tax-deductible donation by clicking here:  Wild River Donation.

Wild River Review/Wild Table editor, Warren Bobrow grew up on a Biodynamic farm in Morristown, NJ. A graduate of Emerson College in Boston- with a degree in Film, he spent his senior year of college as a research assistant in visual thinking. (Center for Advanced Visual Studies @ MIT)

To learn more about Warren, click here:  Wild River Review.

Please follow me on Twitter @WarrenBobrow1

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All work published in the pages of Wild River Review belongs to the magazine.

For print publication, please contact: info@wildriverreview.com

We welcome online links, but you must be fully credited with a link back to the Wild River Review website.

Warren is a cocktail creator/author/contributor to Williams-Sonoma and also for Foodista.

2 Comments »

  1. Delicious, historical, and visually sooooo appealing!!

    Comment by julie — April 27, 2012 @ 2:56 pm

  2. Incredibly inspiring – I love Humbertos creativity in associating ideas and history with interesting and taste-bud-opening ingredients!

    Comment by Thomas — April 28, 2012 @ 7:07 am

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