WILD TABLE - Tales of the Cocktail:

There is a secret language in New Orleans.  This language is only known by a select few, but never spoken or discussed.  Is there a dictionary for this tongue?  No.  But once a year, as if by osmosis, the language is shouted for all to hear.  What are they saying?

Photo: Warren Bobrow

The Tales of the Cocktail is that unspoken language. How do you know when it is spoken? In New Orleans, where it is said the modern cocktail was invented, if you listen it will become crystal-clear what they are speaking. Tales is a trade show, a competition, and a liquid-driven history lesson.

Leblon Truck-Photo: Warren Bobrow

Stephanie Carter of the Museum of Southern Food and Beverage said it very clearly, "the cocktail is as much a part of the thread of New Orleans as it is all over the world. The cocktail is the history of this place which is 'underwater' and very much alive with possibilities."

Leblon Cachaca truck- Photo: Warren Bobrow

At the Tales of the Cocktail, history is being made each time a new liquor hits the market or a classic hotel bar cocktail is reinvented. Sure, there are all the usual suspects mixing the drinks. The major brands are all here too- vying for attention, advertising their products by employing the greatest bartenders in the world. 

Those bartenders' names are all known to those who make their living behind the bar: Natalie Bovis, who created a non-alcoholic drink called the Fre-Thyme - 2 oz Blood orange juice, 3/4 oz fresh Thyme syrup, 3 oz. club soda; David Wondrich, Dave Broom, Whisky Magazine *Scotland*, Ron Cooper founder of Del Maguey (Mezcal)

This is not a casual career.  Bartenders are like demi-Gods.  They have rock star status and they are paid like the heads of major corporations.  This is the business called hospitality and to be hospitable requires great talent.

A usual scene in the French Quarter

You have to start pretty early in the morning to prepare for an event such as the Tales. This takes practice to learn how to drink smartly before noon.  It’s been said that the sun should be warm over your toes before you have a cocktail, but here in New Orleans the cocktail shakers never stop making their sing-song sound of ice against metal, crunch crunch crunch.  The frost of the cold forming on the sides of the shaker.  The aroma of the liquor.  The snap of the first pour into the correct glass.  The right cherries (never those things dyed bright red, artisan is the word and the mantra) it’s all about craft, passion and soul.  All types are plying their talents- but how do they know each other?  What is the identifying features?

Lit Up- Photo: Warren Bobrow

At the William Grant event over at the WW2 museum the clock stopped in 1945.  The ceiling bristling with aircraft from the former “Rosie the Riveter” era.  There are all sorts of cocktails being imbibed.  Find yourself at Jackson Square, named for Andrew Jackson- in between having your Tarot cards read- there are more cocktails.  The Carousel Bar at the Hotel Monteleone is a favorite spot- it’s like a circus without animals- the bar moves around the room like a merry go round.  Is the floor moving?  No, it is all in your head.  Nothing changes around here- the flavors true- the drinks strong- how many have you had?

Before/After Photo: Warren Bobrow

Tasting seminars rule the roost.  This is where the new products hit the market.  Hanna Lee is elegant standing as the sentinel to the throngs of smiling, thirsty faces trying the newest products from the classic brand Marie Brizard, which did I like?  The tea showed beautifully.  This is not just about cordials but Gin, Vodka, Bourbon, all the best flavors that the world has to offer.  Over at the Bombay Club, Janet Mick is showing her best in Southern hospitality for Purity Vodka- the country ham, grits and deviled eggs show beautifully against the background of Jazz.  Is that Ed Hamilton over there?  The Ministry of Rum is represented giving a liquid history of the jewels of the Caribbean.  Are you listening to what the rums have to say?

New Orleans is everything and nothing during the Tales of the Cocktail.  If you haven’t yet made your reservations for next year- it’s not too late.  Tell them that you read about it here-make your trip count and just go.

My advice is to start drinking heavily right now… You’ll need to get your body in shape and this isn’t a 10K race, it’s century marathon of drinking.

Ann Tuennerman, the founder of the Tales of the Cocktail is crystal clear when she says that her favorite drink is the Sazerac.  It’s a history lesson in a glass connecting each sip to the past, firmly in the present and moving towards the future of this eclectic gathering of like minded individuals, all here for the same reason.  And the language they’re speaking is the language of passion.  It’s all about hospitality.

Laissez les bons temps rouler, and come back next year.  Don’t believe it?  See for yourself and have a cocktail or ten, starting at 7:30 in the morning.  Cheers!

Carousel Bar

At the Carousel Bar the seats go round and round.  Is the floor moving or is it the bar?

I'm not going home/worn by John Gibbons at TOTC

Who knows.  Just go.  Next year is the tenth anniversary of the Tales.  If it’s anything like this year, start drinking now.

Milagro Tequila End of the Tales Pool Party

Milagro Tequila pool party

The Polo Club, New Orleans

Leblon truck

distillation of mint in an evaporative distiller

Coop's Fried Chicken. The Best in New Orleans!

To hear Warren and a group of distinguished writers talk about the latest alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails with award-winning Cathy Lewis on her show HearSay, click here:  What's Cookin': The Cocktail Hour

To support our mission and passion for good storytelling, please help support my work and make a tax-deductible donation by clicking here:  Wild River Donation. 

The World’s Largest Negroni Cocktail
On Thursday, July 21, close to 400 cocktail enthusiasts gathered today to witness and taste the “World’s Largest Negroni,” a massive 30-gallon cocktail made of equal parts Campari, Italy’s legendary red spirit, Beefeater 24 Gin and Martini Rosso Vermouth.  The festive libation was made on site to celebrate the “Year of the Negroni” and was presented in a handcrafted ice vessel.  The high-spirited event, a highlight of the Tales of the Cocktail festival, was orchestrated by Master Mixologist Francesco Lafranconi and held at the Royal Sonesta Hotel in New Orleans’ French Quarter.  In addition, noted Italian bartenders from around the globe flew in to make their own highly distinctive Negroni variations at the event using fresh juices, rare Italian liqueurs and Prosecco sparkling wine.  In homage to the Negroni cocktail’s creator, Count Camillo Negroni, the bartenders dressed up to resemble him and donned aristocratic handlebar moustaches.